Karitane River mouth
Hit karitane today with Gusto. Been there five times previously and was the first time i'd seen it anywhere near good. F@#king freezing to me somehow doesn't do it justice. Dunedin surfers have a loose connection upstairs managing incoming sensory input. Surfed like a cockroach, didn't do my "rest" period justice gifted a couple of bombs to Gus, (Just as well as he was on the inside...) Ready for round 2. Must mention I caught a solid left. Quality

2 Comments:
hey dude how do you catch a solid left on a right breaking bar?
this is somekind of sub-human language
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